![]() Thanks!ĭarn, I hate to be in disagreement with edpol again, but I always thought the whole point of a dual master cylinder (by that I mean one with a dual fluid reservoir) was so that one reservoir fed the front brakes and the other fed the rear. I'll also send you a private e-mail so you can send them to me direct if you'd rather. So maybe the best thing to do would be post the pictures here for all to see? what year and model car did the dual master & booster you got on eBay come from? Probably others could use the info and pictures as well- if not now, then later when they come across this thread. Steve, I'm going to have to do this on my '63 as well. I Was very satisfied and if you would like some pics, just shoot me your e-mail address. Including shipping and the parts I got from my local parts store totaled was less than $300.00. It took about an hour to do and looks great. It's all assembled with the linkages and mounting hardware. Which is needed with the original "Brass T Fitting" that is on your master cylinder So the brake light switch can be retained. The only thing extra I had to buy was a pair of adapters to mate my brake lines to the new master And a 12" steel brake line. Steveīubbastbird wrote: I opted for a complete dual master & booster swap from E-bay. I opted for a complete dual master & booster swap from E-bay. ![]() Since the original brake boosters are so expensive, when you add in that you'll have to return your core w/shipping it's well over $200.00 bucks just for the booster. Unless you are going for complete originality the single master was all that was avalailable. Look at this link.There is alot of info on this here if you look under the recent post for 61-63 thunderbirds and 61-63 modified thunderbirds. There is also a GMH master cylinder used by some of the guys here in Aust that must fit. Unfortunately you would probably still have to remove the brace to refill the fluid reservoir but without the brace mods. Mitch I thought the flat top master cylinders would pass under the brace. This is one of the places I spent time researching brake valves. If you want to read more look at this link. I know a 66 has a proportioning valve but I'm not sure if it also had a metering valve built in. I suggested the combination valve because it incorporates both metering and proportioning valves saving you the hassle of trying to set the adjustable rear brakes, which I believe can be difficult to get right. An adjustable proportioning valve give you the option to adjust rear brake pressure to your own preference. When the rear pads make contact with the drums it then adds pressure to the front disks for even braking. A metering valve adds pressure to the rear brakes first. As weight is added to the front end when braking the valve reduses pressure to the rear to stop brake lock up. ![]() A proportioning valve regulates the brake pressure to the rear brakes. I will be sticking with drum brakes all round. I am also going to use the curved 66 shock top and modify the brace. I decided I would go with a dual 1970 Mustang master cylinder and a proportioning valve. I'm by no means a brake expert but just passing on information that I learned a few years ago when looking into changing my 64 to dual master cylinder. ![]()
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